Research Proposal: Affective Wearable Soft Media
Choi, Yong Soon (goodsoon96@gmail.com)
May 2008
1. Introduction
Traditionally, we mainly use voice-based and text-based communication, such as a writing text, seeing displays, listening to sounds, etc. But these communication methods are not sufficient to fully express human emotions and contexts. The body gesture, touch of a hand, and facial expression are types of ambient communication expressions that can sometimes deeply explain our intended minds and intrinsic information more truly and with more human warmth.
Fig1. Clothing is a good communication media
Clothing has been used as a good communication media since ancient times where many wearers have used garments and accessories to express their social positions, abilities, personalities, occupations, and surrounding circumstances using their apparel types (garments, accessories, and etc.) These expressions have especially been focused on visual expressions such as colors, shapes, and textures, etc.
Nowadays however, we can embed smart materials, sensors, and devices into fabrics and clothing which leads to the development of wearable technologies.
As a result, we can express various colors, textile, sounds, textures, smells, and taste expressions on clothing types. Thus the wearer can express their emotions and feelings using these smart expressions on clothes and soft fabric based media.
This research aims to express love and other similar delicate human communication and context in wearable, soft, ambient media. Through this, we can communicate with other people in an interesting manner, easily and with more happiness. We can enlarge the possible objects of expression which can be used as a soft media such as clothing pieces (such as a bags, hats, shoes, gloves, neckties, belts, scarf, ribbon, watch, hair band, ear ring, necklace, finger ring, breastpin, etc.) and Interior design features (furniture, curtain, wall sheet and so on).
2. Affective Wearable Media
Fig2. The Diagram of Wearable soft Media based on Communication Process
Affective wearable media focuses on the emotional communication that can deeply send our feelings and emotions to others. In other words, this communication method does not only convey raw information, but also our deep feelings, intentions, expressions and culture through the smart clothing media. This will revolutionize the present digital communications and enhance social, business, and entertainment communication.
Affective media takes the full use of the five human senses and transcends traditional limits of media. Typically, we receive feeling information from others through our five senses; the media should also do this for more meaningful exchanges. For example, parents feel their children’s mood by the colour change of their T-shirt, or by the change in the smell of accessories, or by the sounds around their clothing.
Due to the broadness of our communication media, the methods of interaction are somewhat indirect compared with traditional, non-mediated communication methods. When we use a telephone or an online messenger service to communicate, the words we write or speak are direct. But for affective wearable media, it may not make sense to express our emotions directly with words printed on the clothing, and sometimes it is difficult to express one’s feelings directly even if word were to be used. In our proposed research, five sensory cues will represent our emotions. For example, sharp shaped clothing means bad or stressed mood, while warm and soft colour means happiness. This indirect way is not only intriguing for the wearer and others, but it is also an efficient way of sending messages in many cases.
Communication Channels – Human Sensory Organs
In general, the 5 human sensory organs (eyes - Seeing, ears - Hearing, skin - Touching, nose - smelling, mouth - Tasting) can be said to be the human communication channels. These communication channels can be identified as input/output interfaces in the communication cycle (e.g. Input: mouth - talking, hand - the writing, hand - the hand touches, output: the ears - listening his talk, the eyes - seeing the text, the skin - feel his hand touches, etc). In particular, this media takes the full use of five human senses and transcends traditional limits of media. In non-mediated situations, we receive others’ emotional information through any of our five senses; this can still be supported with new media even over a distance presenting new possibilities for interaction.
Media - Clothing Types and Soft Gadgets
In general, "media" refers to the various technical means which enable the communication process. For example, telephone, television, radio, and newspaper are traditional types of media. One of the most fundamental concepts related to the understanding of media is that it is "any extension of ourselves" (McLuhan). We can apply or create new technology features into existing fashion media, for example, particular fashion items and soft interior design gadgets can be used as communication media. Instead of the cold, mechanical buttons of a machine, a brooch, neck tie, parts of clothing such as cuffs and collars can be used as input and output in a more gentle approach.
Human Emotion
Human emotion is an issue which is subjective and often difficult to define. An emotion is a mental and physiological state associated with a wide variety of feelings, thoughts, and behaviors. It is a prime determinant of the sense of subjective well-being and appears to play a central role in many human activities. As a result of this generality, the subject has been explored in many, if not all of the human sciences and art forms. There is much controversy concerning how emotions are defined and classified.
But In this study, I am willing to study the representative human emotion models and human emotions that can be used in this study.
Help me !
Mr. Lee, who has a heart disease, went to
I love you ~
Today, James is wants to profess his love to his girl friend, so he meets with her and tells her in words, ‘I love you,’ while at the same time his clothing makes a lovely and beautiful colorful pattern animation and warm texture according to his nervous, and shy, but sincere mind. His girlfriend’s clothing also makes the beautiful colors, animated patterns, and warm texture on her dress. She can see his beautiful clothing color expression which signifies a great loving heart to her and she can feel his sincere love. So she receives his love and has communicated back her feelings as well.
Night mountaineering
Roshan goes night mountaineering during the winter for the first time. During the dark night, he loses the path leading back to the mountain villa and feels tired and cold. However, he need not worry about it as his suit was changed its shape to block the cold wind, and he can also see the other mountaineers when he notices the illuminated cloth moving up in the distance. He follows, rejoins them, and makes it safely to the mountain villa.
Intelligent Suit
Mr. Lee is very busy today. He has to join a big meeting in the morning, and meet his girlfriend later in the evening to celebrate her birthday. He wears the texture changing suit today. He rotates the button on the inside pocket to change the suit’s textile surface. The smart suit changes the textile for a cleaner and smart look. After his successful meeting, he rotates his button again, and this time his formal suit slowly changes to a more casual and fashionable style.
Predator Soldiers
Captain Lee, and his soldiers are in an armed invasion training session. They have to infiltrate a mocked up, well-guarded enemy base. Their enemies search for Captain Kim and his soldiers without success because Captain Kim and his soldier use the color changing military suits to help in concealing themselves. They manage to survive the mission “all clear.”
You’ve got urgent email!
Mrs. Choo works as a stock market dealer and receives much stress from her work. She is having lunch with her friend in a cafĂ©. Suddenly, the soft smart material flowers of her handbag accessories change their color and start to physically blooming to tell her that she is receiving an urgent email form her boss. Her friend doesn’t know what is happening but envies her color changing handbag. Mrs Choo, however, calls the office secretary with a big smile.
Display Curtain
Ms.Yuki has lived in one room, in
Pet Sofa
Mr. Kim lives alone in
4. Research Areas
Fig3. The Architecture of Affective Wearable soft media
Based on the previous my studies about the wearable Interface and Interaction, I defined the interaction relationships of wearable soft media as four areas,
Interaction 1 - Sensing
This interaction is between the sender and smart media. The sensors can detect five sensory cues from the senders. An example is that the variable sensors in the smart media can measure the sender’s behaviors and emotional changes.
Human emotion is an issue which is subjective, difficult to define, and even more complicated to measure because it is so personal. In general, the methods for measuring human emotion is divided into two categories, one being the psychological method based on user's subjective evaluation and the other being the physiological methods based on physiological signs. These signs can be tracked by sensors such as brain waves, electromyography (EMG), motion analysis systems, ultrasound, seat pressure distribution systems, heart beat, temperature, eye tracking, as well as user observation methods including: ethnography, survey, questionnaire, interview, video observation, and photo diary.
Interaction 2 - Actuation
This interaction is between the smart media and the receiver. The actuator can actuate certain sensory cues, which can represent the emotion or feeling of the sender, according the transmitted parameters. Following the example above, the smart media can make various visual, auditory, tangible, smell and taste expressions such that the receiver can also understand the meaning of those expressions.
This actuation is based on the communication channel expressions (the 5 human sensory organs – visual, auditory, tangible, smell, and taste expressions)
The visual expression of clothing is color, shape, texture, textile, etc and the auditory expression is voice, music, non verbal sound. Tangible, smell, and taste expressions are under represented in current research and would benefit from more standard and formal researches.
Interaction 3 - Integration
This interaction is between the sender and the receiver. This interaction needs the integration of human emotions and various expressions to understand the sender’s messages and emotions.
In general, the methods for integrating human emotions and smart expressions are divided in two, one being quality, based on illustrious expert user's subjective opinions, and another being the quantity method based on the user’s feedback, opinions, and actions.
It is not easy to directly form the relationship between human emotions and smart expressions. Because human perceptions of the smart expression cues are different from current culture and daily experiences, this integration of information could contain cultural cues to aid in the understanding and adoption.
Interaction1,2,3 - Evaluation
The evaluation can be divided into 3 parts. The first one is the sensing evaluation part in which we evaluate the efficiency of sensing and user observation. The second aspect is the actuation evaluation in which we measure the efficiency and suitability in different methods of sending expressions. The third aspect is integration evaluation. In this, we evaluate the efficiency, usability, and suitability in the relationship of human emotions and various expressions on the clothing type and fabric-based soft media.
In general, the emotion evaluation includes many different methods, SD, questionnaire, interview, FGI(Focus group interview), ethnography,
Research Area | Research Issues |
| Sensing | Physical and Psychology Methods Sensing the Human Emotions through biosignals – brain waves, electromyography (EMG), motion analysis system, ultrasound, seat pressure distribution system, heart beat, temperature, eye tracking, etc Observing Behavior and Analyzing – Ethnography, Survey, Questionnaire, Interview, Video observation, Photo Diary, etc |
| Actuation | Visual Expression – Color, Shape, Textile, etc. Auditory Expression – Music, Voice, Non Verbal Sound, etc. Tangible Expression – Temperature, Vibrate, squeezing, etc Smell & Taste Expression |
| Integration | Relation of smart expression and Human emotions : Quality and Quantity Methods Quality method - Expert interview, FGI Quantity method –Sensing data statistic and Analysis, Survey, Questionnaire |
| Evaluation | Evaluation methodology - Semantic differential , Kano Interpretation, Analysis methodology – correspondence analysis, multiple regression analysis |
5. Present Research Status
5.1. Sensing
There are many studies about human emotions. Thus, it is not easy to form of human emotions and its expression methods. And understanding emotions requires the sensitivity of differences depending on the individual subject’s experiences, educational background, and culture. In this study, among the various forms of human emotions, those that are most fundamental were extracted and by integrating various studies, they were classified into 8 emotions. They are joyful, excited, angry, hateful, sad, surprised, fearful, and shameful.
I have collecting and studied various physical and psychological methods of sensing human emotions.
Fig4. The Representative 8 human emotions
5.2. Actuation
5.2.1. Visual Expression
Firstly, I was focused on visual expression. In general, the colour, textile material, texture, shapes, etc. can be used in visual expressions on the clothing types. I have studied visual expressions on cloth types using chemical and electronic materials for color expression, colour changing, and pattern changing. In the case of colour, there are chemical and electronic materials which can be used in the palette of expression. In particular, the chemical and electronic materials have different characteristics which are summarizes below.
| Output | Chemical Effect | Electrical Effect |
| Expression Color | All Colors Ink based color | All Colors Lighting based color |
| Representative Materials | Thermochromic Ink UV Ink | LED ,OLED, EL, Luminex |
| Brightness& Freshness | Mixing – Low Brightness, Low Freshness. Ink Color | Mixing – High Brightness, High Freshness. Lighting Color |
| Advantage | Variable color Expression Easy to use - Printing and Dyeing Slow, Soft and warm feeling color changing Washable | Variable color Expression Easy to change colors Strong, Fast, and Accurate color changing |
| Disadvantage | Not accurate color changing and many values Only Daytime can see | Too strong color -Not easy to match with fabrics Only Nighttime can see Can’t wash |
Table2. The Comparison of Chemical and Electrical effects
Electrical Method
I have studied electronic materials (El-Wire, El-Stripe, El-Sheet, LEDs, Light fibers, etc) and related H/W materials and their characteristics and based on this researches, I have made some prototypes of electrical visual expressions which led to general findings below.
| Expression | Research issues |
| Color | The Relation of fabric colour and electrical colour – light can effect to fabric color and textures. Color expression – LED can make different colors but EL can’t Color changing expressions Color variation and gradation expressions |
| Light | Brightness control – EL can control brightness Lighting shapes – dot, line, and plant shapes. Reflection and Illumination materials – make bigger shapes and making different shapes and patterns. |
| Blinking | The speed of blinking The rhythm of blinking The Dimmer and Brighter expressions |
| Pattern | The pattern changing using the light Using the shadow and its patterns |
| Texture | The texture changing using the light Using the shadow and its textures |
Table3. The Research issues of Electrical Materials
Fig.5, the test for the relation of fabric characteristics and Electronic Color

Fig.6, The prototype of Blinking Pattern changing Communication –Accessory Bangle type
Fig.7, The prototype of Lighting Shape changing(Animated) Communication –Accessory Wallet type
Fig.8, Light Fabric (light-Fiber & LED- luminex)
Fig.10, Concept Flexible Full color LED Panel in Cloth (Developing now)
Fig.11, The prototype of Clothing Shape Changing and Blinking Pattern Changing Communication –Clothing type
I have made some prototypes of garments based on the basic research of the electrictronic materials and their characteristics.
Chemical Method
I have also studied thermochromic ink. Through the careful use of ink, controlling of conductive yarn, and various paint and dye tests, I have learned to control chemical color changing and textile changing relating to expressions on the clothing.
| Expression | Research issues |
| Color | The relation of fabric and thermochromic ink Color changing expressions – changing color levels and speed Color variation and gradation expressions |
| Sewing | The relation of Sewing method and reaction of color changing Stitch length and gaps Sewing pattern and shapes – machine and hand |
| Coloring | Painting method – Silk screen and Dyeing Fixing ink on the fabrics Density and washing test |
| Pattern | The pattern changing using the thermochromic |
| Texture | The texture changing using the thermochromic Using the brush and other stuff to paint and its textures |
Table4. The Research issues of Thermochromic Materials
Fig.13, Color variation Test, Fabric test, Conductive yarn Sewing and Color changing test
Fig.14, Test of Color Changing Flower (clothing accessories types-Dyeing Method)
Fig.15, Prototype of Color Changing Flower on the Blouse
Fig.16, Conductive Yarn Sewing and color changing (Printing Test- Silk Screen Method)
5.3. Integration
Smart Visual Expressions and the 8 Basic Human Emotions
I have studied human emotions and human communication. I have extracted eight human basic emotions by integrating these various emotional studies. In addition, I have extracted the psychological and emotional adjectives from the related vocabularies. Similarly, the adjectives and related vocabularies related to the expression from each of the visual language elements of clothing types and materials were gathered. For example, the horizon line means short, broad, quiet, calm. The color red means love, danger, liveliness, activeness. With these basic low-level data, I re-grouped each visual language expression ordering by these eight human basic emotions.
As I mentioned early, the integration of visual expressions and human emotions were arranged in a matrix for the expression of emotions using light in apparel types. If the user searches for human emotion adjectives, the related expressions for the smart garment are found through this matrix. But, this matrix has very basic data, which needs to be expanded. Mt goal is to find more visual language elements and consider how to represent the changeable and more complex visual language elements.
As I mentioned previously, it is not always appropriate to form one’s emotion as a simple expression. It is very different depending on individual experience, educational experiences, culture, and so on. But this kind of study is needed to pull out the underlying themes and develop the concept design. This matrix and this methodology can provide some guidelines for design and for the development of smart clothing that can express the wearer’s emotions and share the feelings of others with the designer, engineer, and planner.
Fig18. The matrix of the relation of human emotions and visual expressions
Based on this study, I am currently building a web based database system for referencing the relationship of human emotions and various visual expressions on the various clothing types. I will enlarge this to capture the relationship of more smart expressions and human emotions on an ongoing basis.
Fig.19, Database system for relation of human emotions and expressions on the clothing types (Developing now)
My focus is on the relationships of visual expressions and its corresponding human emotions conveyed through clothing and soft fabrics. Based on the 8 human emotions, I will connect the relationships between the human emotions and various visual expressions in clothing and soft fabrics. These relationships will be preserved in the database system to be used as a design resource, illuminating the relationship between human emotion and various expressions.
6. Future Research Plan
Sensing Part
- The study on the physical method sensing
- The study on the various sensing methodologies and usages.
- The study on the psychological method sensing
- The study on the various user observation methodologies and usages.
- The study on the human emotion and its measuring
Actuation Part
- The concretization of smart expression elements which are related on five human sensory organs which are visual expression elements, auditory expression elements, etc. For example, visual expression case, the color, texture, pattern, textile, and shape can be used in visual expressions elements.
- As a first step of this research, the smart visual expression will more be focused, and auditory, tangible, and smell & taste will be focused one by one.
- Developing more visual expression modules (color, pattern, textile, texture, and shape changing modules using the chemical, electrical and mechanical materials.) These can be used in clothing types and fabric based interior design elements.
- Finding suitable materials able to be used as smart organic sensors for expression. More flexible, lighter, smaller, and more natural organic sensors, displays, and expressions are to be gathered. Further research of smart materials which are more flexible, lighter, and smaller.
- Visual Expression Textile and Pattern Expression:
Through changeable color expressions, conduct research into changeable textiles and pattern changing of fabric and soft displays on clothes and fabric based elements. I endeavor to make textiles which enable dynamic changes in the women’s hand bag and men’s neck tie. This can be applied to other accessories as well using the pattern changing textile that is controllable by the user so that it can be changed according to the wearer’s environment, social occasion, and purpose.
- Visual Expression Shape Expression:
I endeavor to make shape changing expressions for soft and ambient displays. This includes shape changing cloth for example, the increasing volume of a dress or the dynamically changing skirt shape using electronic materials.
Integration and Evaluation
- The study on the methodology of relationships between human emotion and various expressions.
- The study on the quality method about the integration of human emotion and various expressions and The study on the quantity method about the integration of human emotion and various expressions
- The development and creation of prototypes
- The study on the methodology of emotional evaluation
- The evaluation of sensing of human emotion and actuation of smart expressions
- The evaluation of integration of the relationship of human emotions and smart expressions.
- Implementation of the database system (web-based) that can provide the relationships of human emotions and variable expressions, for example, if users search the human emotion ‘happy’ in this system, they can see the related emotional keywords of happy and happy colors, shapes, patterns, and textiles.
Related Research Part
- Developing the reasonable usage scenarios and prototypes that can be used in actual clothing and real world applications through the extracting of user needs in clothing communication and ambient communication.












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